IWC Portofino Watches

About IWC Portofino Watches

First launched in 1984, the Portofino is a relatively new collection to the IWC catalog. To understand IWC’s approach to designing the model, you first need some context. In the 1980s, the industry was just beginning to recover from the Quartz Crisis. At the time, most watchmakers were pushing the boundaries and creating increasingly bold designs. IWC decided to take a different approach and return to their roots. They launched the Portofino as a “pocket watch for the wrist,” more specifically, a Lepine pocket watch for the wrist. Jean-Antione Lepine was one of the greatest watchmakers in the world. His namesake pocket watch would serve as the inspiration for the initial Portofino Reference 5251. It featured a rather large case for the time yet maintained a slim profile. In addition, the model showcased Roman numeral hour markers and Breguet hands. Still, the most interesting element of the Ref. 5251 was the prominent moonphase display at the three-o’clock position. The particular design of the moonphase featured a large, yellow moon. When placed against the white dial, it reminded people of a fried egg, giving this model its nickname, “The Fried Egg.” In turn, the moonphase has since become a signature complication of the Portofino collection.

IWC initially resisted the quartz craze. However, they went on to add a quartz variation of the Portofino to their catalog four years later in 1988. Still, it wasn’t until several years later in 1993 that IWC made a more significant addition to the Portofino line. That year, they introduced the Portofino Hand Wound, Reference 2010. This time-only variation of the Portofino truly embodied the spirit of a quintessential dress watch. It featured minimalist stick hands and hours markers and, most notably, housed the brand’s Caliber H/849 movement. This gave the Ref. 2010 a thickness of just 1.85mm. The model was a welcome addition to the collection and remained in production until 2005.

Two years later, IWC returned to developing more complex iterations of the model with the Romana Perpetual Calendar, Reference 2050. Yet, its design also incorporated principles from the Ref. 2010. As the name suggests, the Romana Perpetual Calendar boasted a perpetual calendar complication as well as the signature moonphase. However, its thoughtful design made it one of the thinnest watches with a perpetual calendar complication at the time. The Ref. 2050 also remained in production until 2005.

While these early variations continued into the new millennium, IWC continued to evolve the Portofino line. In 2003, the brand introduced the Portofino Automatic. In addition to the new movement, the model noticeably featured a larger, more contemporary case size. The 38mm Reference 3533 was a welcome addition to the collection and helped bring the Portofino into the modern era. It also helped open the Portofino line to a new group of customers.

2008 was a special year for IWC as the brand celebrated their monumental 140th anniversary. To commemorate the occasion, they issued a vintage re-edition from each of their collections. The Portofino Vintage largely echoed the original Ref. 5251 with the iconic moon phase display. However, this time, the aperture appeared at the twelve-o’clock position and featured a more subdued grey depiction of the moon. This design change came as a result of a technical one. The Savonette movement caliber 98800 allowed for the alternate, vertical positioning of the complication and subsequently the small seconds register.

Next came the Portofino Hand Wound Eight Days, Reference 5101. This model established itself as the flagship of the Portofino family in 2011. As the name suggests, it featured the new IWC-manufactured movement 59210 caliber hand wound with an eight-day power reserve. IWC continued to refine the Portofino collection in 2014 with the introduction of the Portofino Automatic 37. As indicated by the name, the 37mm midsize iteration was simple and elegant. 2017 saw a return to more complex variations of the model with the Portofino Hand Wound Moon Phase. With this version, IWC integrated a moonphase complication in the Portofino with the IWC-manufactured 59800 caliber eight day, hand-wound movement for the first time.

2018 once again marked a significant anniversary for the IWC brand, this time 150 years. As part of their commemorative timepieces, IWC launched the Portofino Automatic Edition 150 years in a limited run of 2000 pieces. With a 40mm diameter, this special edition iteration continues with the more contemporary design cues. The following year, IWC introduced a surprisingly ornate variation to the Portofino collection: the Automatic 34. This model marks the first dedicated ladies’ watch within the Portofino line. It features a striking 18-carat 5N gold construction with 104 diamonds and embossed silver-plated dial.